Safety measures in sailing practice involve all actions to protect the boat and its crew from a dangerous situation.
This often involves heavy weather conditions to which a skipper and their crew must respond in the most appropriate way possible.
Here are some examples of safety measures.
When the wind picks up, it becomes necessary to reduce the sail area. Sail reduction should be done:
In anticipation (to avoid a risky situation):
- When approaching a squall to prepare for violent gusts
- Before nightfall if you want to avoid crew members moving to the mast base in the dark
- In preparation for any situation where the wind is likely to strengthen (passing a cape, a narrow passage where the wind accelerates, etc.)
In reaction:
- When the helm becomes "hard" and the boat becomes difficult to steer
- When the boat tends to heel excessively and starts "pushing water"
Reefing
Reefing involves reducing the mainsail area by lowering it to one or more reefing points to keep the boat manageable as the wind increases.
To reef:
- Ease the mainsail sheet and the vang
- Ease the mainsail halyard until the reefing cringle reaches the hook on the boom at the mast base
- Tension the mainsail halyard (vertical tension)
- Tighten the reefing line corresponding to the desired reef (horizontal tension)
- Adjust the tension on the other reefing lines and secure them at the mast base to prevent entangling the propeller if a rope falls overboard
- Trim the mainsail sheet and vang
- Resume the desired course
Reducing a furling genoa
To reduce a genoa on a furling system:
- Bring the boat to a broad reach to reduce the apparent wind pressure on the sail
- Ease the sheet completely so that the sail flaps fully to the clew
- Manually tighten the furling line, wrapping it around the winch clockwise (if possible) to avoid shocks on your hands in strong winds
Note: Avoid using a winch handle to furl the foresail, as this may damage the furling system.
The term "emergency maneuvers" refers to various options available when wind and sea conditions no longer allow proper control of the boat. In such heavy weather situations, the goal is to protect the boat and its crew until conditions improve.
In dangerous conditions, each boat reacts differently. The examples below are not an exhaustive list of possible measures to protect the boat in heavy weather.
The skipper retains full responsibility for their decisions based on the boat's characteristics, the crew's condition, and the wind and sea state. There is no universal solution, but rather an analytical approach, often involving testing, to secure the boat against the constraints of each situation.
Heaving to involves "stopping" the boat while sailing. This maneuver allows the helm to be released (if locked in the correct position) so the crew can attend to other tasks: resting, treating an injury, eating, etc.
There are two types of heaving to: "standard" heaving to and bare poles.
Standard Heaving To
To heave to using the standard method:
- Luff up to bring the boat close-hauled
- Tack without adjusting the genoa sheet
- Ease the mainsail completely
- Lock the helm in the maximum luffing position (to leeward with a tiller, to windward with a wheel).
The opposing forces of the helm and genoa balance the boat, with the mainsail neutralized. The boat stabilizes at a very slow speed between a beam reach and close reach, depending on the trim of the foresail.
Note
It is possible to heave to with just a foresail or a reefed mainsail. In this case, adjustments to the sheet tension and helm angle must be made to protect the boat from the waves.
In rough seas, it is preferable to orient the boat closer to the wind rather than beam-on to the waves.
Bare Poles Heaving To
Bare poles heaving to works on the same principle as standard heaving to, but with all sails lowered. This method is more suited to very strong winds. Some sailors advise against it, while others, like Adlard Coles, report using it frequently in heavy weather. Each skipper should experiment to determine the most suitable approach for their boat.
Sea Anchor
A sea anchor is a fabric device resembling a parachute (hence its English name "para-anchor") used to slow the boat's drift. Popular with fishermen, it can be useful on cruising sailboats in heavy to very heavy weather.
Deployed at the stern, the sea anchor slows the boat down.
In very rough seas (waves over 3 meters) with breaking waves, many sailors prefer deploying it at the bow to keep the bow facing the waves, improving comfort and preventing potential damage to the stern.
Note
Most sea anchors available on the French market are designed for relatively light use (recreational fishing) and are not suited for very heavy weather. A sea anchor must be extremely robust and equipped with a deployment system (rope or strap) proportionate to the boat's size and weight and capable of withstanding very high mechanical stresses.
Running Off
Running off involves sailing downwind to reduce the strain on the boat. In very strong winds, some experienced skippers use "warps" (long lines trailed astern) or a sea anchor to slow the boat.
This technique is suitable when there is sufficient sea room downwind and the waves are not too aggressive for the cockpit. Several boats have sunk after their companionway doors, despite being closed, were smashed by breaking waves.
A strong or reinforced companionway door is therefore a vital safety feature for heavy-weather sailing.
A drawback of running off is that it may require a helmsman if the autopilot is too weak to maintain course, leading to physical fatigue and additional risks for the helmsman exposed to heavy waves from astern.
In summary, running off is more suitable in strong winds as long as the sea remains manageable. Use only the foresail, with the mainsail stowed and secured on the boom, which should also be immobilized.
Emergency Anchoring
Regardless of a boat's preparation level, engine failure can always occur, such as from a rope or fishing net entangling the propeller. In such cases, especially in a bay or port where sailing maneuvers are restricted, it is better to drop anchor than risk running aground. Before departure, the skipper must ensure that anchoring can be quickly executed in an emergency.
Kedging
Kedging involves deploying a smaller anchor ahead of the main anchor, with both connected by a few meters of chain. While this can improve anchoring security, it may be challenging or even dangerous to retrieve if the system drags. Kedging is a gamble on the holding power of the setup, which was better suited to older-style anchors. Nevertheless, it can be useful for securing a long-term anchorage... if done thoroughly!
Using Two Anchors
Using two anchors involves deploying them at an angle to each other to reduce the swinging radius (rotation around one anchor). Start by deploying the first anchor, then slacken its chain to allow deploying the second anchor.
Note
One chain must always be slacker than the other; otherwise, the system may drag. The two anchors will not work simultaneously. This method does not improve holding power in strong winds but can reduce the swinging radius if the wind shifts. Deploy the second anchor with the slackened chain on the side where the wind is expected to turn.
Personal Flotation Devices (or PFDs) include buoyancy aids, life jackets, and vests.
Life jackets can be inflatable or have permanent buoyancy (foam type).
Inflatable life jackets, commonly referred to as "automatic jackets," are much more ergonomic and preferred by sailors. These PFDs automatically inflate when submerged in water using a compressed air cartridge.
In case of failure, inflation can be triggered manually by pulling a tab usually located at the bottom right of the jacket or using an inflation tube typically positioned at the top left. Once inflated, the shape of the bladders, called "lungs," should keep an unconscious person's head above water to breathe.
These jackets are equipped with a whistle, a belt, and a "crotch strap" to prevent the jacket from riding up when in the water.
They also have a hauling handle to facilitate the recovery of a person who has fallen overboard.
Unlike life jackets, vests only have horizontal fastening straps. Foam vests are stored in lockers and are uncomfortable to wear.
Official buoyancy performance standards for Personal Flotation Devices for recreational boat safety (new Division 240, updated in 2017)
The performance level is expressed in newtons. The standard must be NF-EN 12402
or an equivalent standard. The equipment must fit the user's body
and meet the following requirements:
At least 50 newtons (buoyancy aid) for navigation up to 2 nautical miles
from a shelter;
At least 100 newtons (life jacket) for navigation up to
6 nautical miles from a shelter;
At least 150 newtons (life jacket) for navigation in all zones;
At least 100 newtons (life jacket) for children weighing up to 30 kg,
regardless of the distance from a shelter.
These devices are approved or certified.
Note
An individual light source (such as a flash lamp or cyalume) with a minimum 6-hour autonomy must now be attached to each personal flotation device.
Safety measures in sailing practice involve all actions to protect the boat and its crew from a dangerous situation.
This often involves heavy weather conditions to which a skipper and their crew must respond in the most appropriate way possible.
Here are some examples of safety measures.
When the wind picks up, it becomes necessary to reduce the sail area. Sail reduction should be done:
In anticipation (to avoid a risky situation):
- When approaching a squall to prepare for violent gusts
- Before nightfall if you want to avoid crew members moving to the mast base in the dark
- In preparation for any situation where the wind is likely to strengthen (passing a cape, a narrow passage where the wind accelerates, etc.)
In reaction:
- When the helm becomes "hard" and the boat becomes difficult to steer
- When the boat tends to heel excessively and starts "pushing water"
Reefing
Reefing involves reducing the mainsail area by lowering it to one or more reefing points to keep the boat manageable as the wind increases.
To reef:
- Ease the mainsail sheet and the vang
- Ease the mainsail halyard until the reefing cringle reaches the hook on the boom at the mast base
- Tension the mainsail halyard (vertical tension)
- Tighten the reefing line corresponding to the desired reef (horizontal tension)
- Adjust the tension on the other reefing lines and secure them at the mast base to prevent entangling the propeller if a rope falls overboard
- Trim the mainsail sheet and vang
- Resume the desired course
Reducing a furling genoa
To reduce a genoa on a furling system:
- Bring the boat to a broad reach to reduce the apparent wind pressure on the sail
- Ease the sheet completely so that the sail flaps fully to the clew
- Manually tighten the furling line, wrapping it around the winch clockwise (if possible) to avoid shocks on your hands in strong winds
Note: Avoid using a winch handle to furl the foresail, as this may damage the furling system.
The term "emergency maneuvers" refers to various options available when wind and sea conditions no longer allow proper control of the boat. In such heavy weather situations, the goal is to protect the boat and its crew until conditions improve.
In dangerous conditions, each boat reacts differently. The examples below are not an exhaustive list of possible measures to protect the boat in heavy weather.
The skipper retains full responsibility for their decisions based on the boat's characteristics, the crew's condition, and the wind and sea state. There is no universal solution, but rather an analytical approach, often involving testing, to secure the boat against the constraints of each situation.
Heaving to involves "stopping" the boat while sailing. This maneuver allows the helm to be released (if locked in the correct position) so the crew can attend to other tasks: resting, treating an injury, eating, etc.
There are two types of heaving to: "standard" heaving to and bare poles.
Standard Heaving To
To heave to using the standard method:
- Luff up to bring the boat close-hauled
- Tack without adjusting the genoa sheet
- Ease the mainsail completely
- Lock the helm in the maximum luffing position (to leeward with a tiller, to windward with a wheel).
The opposing forces of the helm and genoa balance the boat, with the mainsail neutralized. The boat stabilizes at a very slow speed between a beam reach and close reach, depending on the trim of the foresail.
Note
It is possible to heave to with just a foresail or a reefed mainsail. In this case, adjustments to the sheet tension and helm angle must be made to protect the boat from the waves.
In rough seas, it is preferable to orient the boat closer to the wind rather than beam-on to the waves.
Bare Poles Heaving To
Bare poles heaving to works on the same principle as standard heaving to, but with all sails lowered. This method is more suited to very strong winds. Some sailors advise against it, while others, like Adlard Coles, report using it frequently in heavy weather. Each skipper should experiment to determine the most suitable approach for their boat.
Sea Anchor
A sea anchor is a fabric device resembling a parachute (hence its English name "para-anchor") used to slow the boat's drift. Popular with fishermen, it can be useful on cruising sailboats in heavy to very heavy weather.
Deployed at the stern, the sea anchor slows the boat down.
In very rough seas (waves over 3 meters) with breaking waves, many sailors prefer deploying it at the bow to keep the bow facing the waves, improving comfort and preventing potential damage to the stern.
Note
Most sea anchors available on the French market are designed for relatively light use (recreational fishing) and are not suited for very heavy weather. A sea anchor must be extremely robust and equipped with a deployment system (rope or strap) proportionate to the boat's size and weight and capable of withstanding very high mechanical stresses.
Running Off
Running off involves sailing downwind to reduce the strain on the boat. In very strong winds, some experienced skippers use "warps" (long lines trailed astern) or a sea anchor to slow the boat.
This technique is suitable when there is sufficient sea room downwind and the waves are not too aggressive for the cockpit. Several boats have sunk after their companionway doors, despite being closed, were smashed by breaking waves.
A strong or reinforced companionway door is therefore a vital safety feature for heavy-weather sailing.
A drawback of running off is that it may require a helmsman if the autopilot is too weak to maintain course, leading to physical fatigue and additional risks for the helmsman exposed to heavy waves from astern.
In summary, running off is more suitable in strong winds as long as the sea remains manageable. Use only the foresail, with the mainsail stowed and secured on the boom, which should also be immobilized.
Emergency Anchoring
Regardless of a boat's preparation level, engine failure can always occur, such as from a rope or fishing net entangling the propeller. In such cases, especially in a bay or port where sailing maneuvers are restricted, it is better to drop anchor than risk running aground. Before departure, the skipper must ensure that anchoring can be quickly executed in an emergency.
Kedging
Kedging involves deploying a smaller anchor ahead of the main anchor, with both connected by a few meters of chain. While this can improve anchoring security, it may be challenging or even dangerous to retrieve if the system drags. Kedging is a gamble on the holding power of the setup, which was better suited to older-style anchors. Nevertheless, it can be useful for securing a long-term anchorage... if done thoroughly!
Using Two Anchors
Using two anchors involves deploying them at an angle to each other to reduce the swinging radius (rotation around one anchor). Start by deploying the first anchor, then slacken its chain to allow deploying the second anchor.
Note
One chain must always be slacker than the other; otherwise, the system may drag. The two anchors will not work simultaneously. This method does not improve holding power in strong winds but can reduce the swinging radius if the wind shifts. Deploy the second anchor with the slackened chain on the side where the wind is expected to turn.
Personal Flotation Devices (or PFDs) include buoyancy aids, life jackets, and vests.
Life jackets can be inflatable or have permanent buoyancy (foam type).
Inflatable life jackets, commonly referred to as "automatic jackets," are much more ergonomic and preferred by sailors. These PFDs automatically inflate when submerged in water using a compressed air cartridge.
In case of failure, inflation can be triggered manually by pulling a tab usually located at the bottom right of the jacket or using an inflation tube typically positioned at the top left. Once inflated, the shape of the bladders, called "lungs," should keep an unconscious person's head above water to breathe.
These jackets are equipped with a whistle, a belt, and a "crotch strap" to prevent the jacket from riding up when in the water.
They also have a hauling handle to facilitate the recovery of a person who has fallen overboard.
Unlike life jackets, vests only have horizontal fastening straps. Foam vests are stored in lockers and are uncomfortable to wear.
Official buoyancy performance standards for Personal Flotation Devices for recreational boat safety (new Division 240, updated in 2017)
The performance level is expressed in newtons. The standard must be NF-EN 12402
or an equivalent standard. The equipment must fit the user's body
and meet the following requirements:
At least 50 newtons (buoyancy aid) for navigation up to 2 nautical miles
from a shelter;
At least 100 newtons (life jacket) for navigation up to
6 nautical miles from a shelter;
At least 150 newtons (life jacket) for navigation in all zones;
At least 100 newtons (life jacket) for children weighing up to 30 kg,
regardless of the distance from a shelter.
These devices are approved or certified.
Note
An individual light source (such as a flash lamp or cyalume) with a minimum 6-hour autonomy must now be attached to each personal flotation device.